Sonoma Mountain rises 2463 feet above sea level, part of the Sonoma Mountain range in Northern California. On
the eastern side of the mountain one of the smallest American Viticultural Areas (AVA) in Sonoma Valley is designated as the Sonoma Mountain AVA and includes vineyards located up to 1700 feet in elevation. This is a perfect place to grow mountain wine. Looking east you can see the Mayacamas Mountains, forming the dividing line between the Sonoma and Napa Valleys. Eastern Sonoma Valley is beneath you.
This is the site where Laurel Glen Vineyard grows its world class Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. The vineyard history 
goes way back, but the Laurel Glen era really began when Patrick Campbell bought the property, took cuttings from the original vines, and planted the current 14 acre vineyard starting in 1977. You know this place is unique when you consider the Cabernet Sauvignon has evolved into a unique, recognized clone: the Laurel Glen clone. Today these vineyards thrive, farmed and certified organic since 2014. You can see the winter cover crops of beans, peas
Sonoma Mountain peak behind the vineyards
and clover coming up now. The beans and peas aid the soil by actually putting nitrogen back into it rather than removing it. As the colder weather hits there will be pruning and some maintenance until spring comes around and another growing year begins. If you look west and up, you can see the peak of Sonoma Mountain rising and creating a ragged skyline.
We had a chance to walk the vineyards with winemaker Randall Watkins. Randall’s career spans 28 years, including stints in Chile. He was the winemaker at Moon Mountain Vineyard in Sonoma prior to joining Laurel Glen in 2011. Randall is extremely knowledgeable, and presents a mix of tradition, experience and science. In the past, the Cabernet Sauvignons of winemaker Patrick Campbell were known as
Winemaker Randall Watkins and his wines
complex and rustic, capable of aging for extremely long times in the bottle. Randall’s approach applies some newer, modern equipment and techniques blended with the traditional Laurel Glen way of making wine. The result is a complex cabernet which still can age gracefully, but with a more forward face that allows it to be enjoyed younger. He also makes a series of small production wines which are a homage to Patrick, blended for that more rustic, incredibly long lived result. In general Randall does not filter the wines, and he uses all native yeast fermentation. That fermentation is done in open tanks which are hand punched down, with occasional gentle pump overs. We’ll review wines across the resulting Cabernet spectrum below.
Guiding the vineyard and winery today is Bettina Sichel, who brings a long wine industry resume with her. She is
Map of Glen Ellen area
the managing partner, and in a previous role worked to establish Quintessa before serving as its sales and marketing lead for a decade. She is the daughter of Peter M.F. Sichel, an icon in the international wine industry who made Blue Nun one of the most recognizable wines in the world. My wife and I enjoyed a bottle of Blue Nun on our first date some 40 years ago, so it has a special place in our memories. Bettina is the fifth generation of her family in wine.
To sample the wines of Laurel Glen, you head to its tasting room located in the center of the village of Glen Ellen. 
This is a quaint village, with an excellent market across the street from the tasting room, and a French patisserie right next door. There are also several restaurants within walking distance, as well as some inns. It’s a good location to use as a base for visiting Sonoma wineries, and the very best location from which to visit Laurel Glen. We arrived and were greeted by Randall. After our tour of the vineyards we settled into the comfy tasting room.
We had a chance to sample Cabernet Sauvignon from the three different lines Laurel Glen makes. One is a blend made to drink younger, slightly less powerful and more approachable, although still able to age gracefully. One is the estate Cabernet Sauvignon, a big, rich wine and Randall’s statement to the grape. The third is the small batch wines we mentioned earlier, a throwback to the big, rustic wines of Patrick Campbell. We also tried the Sauvignon Blanc. Here are our notes:
2021 Laurel Glen Blanc Slate Sauvignon Blanc – from 45 year old vines in the Russian River Valley, which
provide low yield fruit. The color is a typical pale straw. On the nose there is abundant fruit, with apple, pear, citrus and wet stone. This is smooth, balanced and carries nice acid throughout. It is unbelievably long for a Sauvignon Blanc. Very high quality, delightful wine. $35
2019 Laurel Glen Counterpoint Cabernet Sauvignon – made from primarily estate grapes, this wine is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot. It is aged in 40% new oak (30% French and 10% American). The juice has a rich, dark ruby color. Dark berries dominate the nose, along with accents of menthol, oak and caramel. On the palate the wine is full bodied, with a great fruit core and balancing acid. It has focus, and that fruit core is everything. Medium+ tannins suggest this will age a long time. This is an excellent Sonoma Mountain Cabernet, and a great value too at $55.
2016 Laurel Glen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon -this is made with all estate vineyard fruit, and is aged in 55%
new French oak. There is the slightest tinge of amber at the rims here, outlining the dark ruby color in the glass. On the nose, there is ripe currant and blackberry, with some plum and wood notes. It is big, but beautifully balanced with nice acid. The finish is very long, and the berry fruit holds sway throughout. Gorgeous wine. $100
2010 Laurel Glen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – this had amber rims with the body color headed toward garnet. It was a cool summer in 2010, followed by a late heat wave, which is very similar to 2022. On the nose the fruit is a little restrained, with berries, oak and coffee. On the palate the blackberry fruit bursts through. It still sports firm tannins, great acid and balance and is a lovely wine. While the color has started to turn the wine has not. This will go on for a long time. $130
And last on our tasting list:
Laurel Glen 2016 Lot 48 Cabernet Sauvignon – Lot 48 signifies the 48th year since the vineyards were
planted. Only the best barrels are selected for this wine which pays homage to the Laurel Glen founder, Patrick Campbell. There is a tiny bit of amber at the rim. Ripe fruit is a bit restrained, with berries but more plummy. This juice is more brawny than its brothers, with firm tannins. It should age for decades. This was Cheri’s favorite. I was torn, as they were all excellent. Aging is done in 80% new oak. $150 and a premier Cabernet. Only 7 barrels were made.
Laurel Glen is is a great stop for any wine lover, and especially for those who really appreciate the energy, tension and dynamic balance of mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. This vineyard is special, and unique considering it is its own clone. You’ll find big wines, but balanced ones. You’ll find accessible older vintages, which we love. The commitment of Randall and Bettina, as well as the whole staff, is very evident. Randall is clearly passionate, if not fanatical, about producing great wine and the best the vineyards will allow. That is a high bar.
Samples of all three types of Cabernet from Laurel Glen were purchased and shipped home, so we clearly believe in the quality and value proposition here.
One of the great things about Laurel Glen is that they still have library wines which their Club members can access. There was a six bottle vertical of the estate Cab on display in the tasting room which almost came home with us. It was very tempting. I might have to rethink that decision.
We very highly recommend a visit to Glen Ellen and the Laurel Glen tasting room if you are touring Sonoma. We also highly recommend their wines. Members in their wine club enjoy 20% off and lots of other benefits. You can find the tasting room location, their available tasting flights and all sorts of other information about the vineyard and the wines on their website at https://laurelglen.com/.
You can read about the previous winery visit from our trip to Sonoma and Napa by clicking here. The next stop is available here.
A votre santé!
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