Ahh, Piedmont. A beautiful region in northwest Italy made of rolling hills, covered in vines and dotted with hilltop villages. It is an idyllic landscape, made even more so by the rows and rows of Nebbiolo grapes that thrive here like no where else in the world. If you think of the great red wine grapes of the world, you might think of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Syrah, among others. All of the these have widespread planting. Certainly they have ancestral and traditional homes, but you will also find them all in Napa and Sonoma Valleys, or even in the Temecula Valley further south. Some are in South America and Australia. Most are even grown not far from us in North Carolina at the Biltmore Estate, and in countless other regions. Great wines from these varietals are made everywhere.
One grape we did not include, but which certainly belongs in the short list of the world’s greatest wine grapes, is Nebbiolo. It is the juice that becomes Barolo, and Barbaresco. Unlike the others, it really only shines in one place in the world. We have run across a few others from other countries, but they are not in the same league, and they are few and far between.
In Piedmont (or Piemonte to Italians), there is a confluence of factors from the Mediterranean to the south, the looming Alps to the north and west, and the Po River which flows through the region. Several designated areas in Piedmont make wine from Nebbiolo, which benefits greatly from the morning fogs, and they include Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Gattinara and Ghemme. The wines are named for the specific classified region they come from, but it is the Nebbiolo grape that is in the bottle. Barolo is king, and Barbaresco the crown prince. Roero, Gattinara and Ghemme versions tend to be a little lighter in structure, could be blends, and are more about the younger fruit, though they can age gracefully. In Barolo and Barbaresco, the wines can age forever in a good vintage, and the result of 20 years in the bottle is a miracle of nature, smooth and elegant beyond belief. These are supremely beautiful wines, powerful when young. A classic description is tar and roses, and you can get both of those in a classic bottle of the regions greatest viticultural triumph. It is hard to find something better in the world of wine.
But that great bottle of Nebbiolo is nowhere to be found outside of the Piemonte region. Is it the fog from the Po River? Is it the cold winters when the mountain air flows south over the region? Perhaps the large, old, neutral aging casks are the cause. Maybe is is the microclimates created by the intricate lattice of hilltops and valleys, or the local soil. I don’t know what it is, but I know that it works far better here than anywhere else in the world.
If you want a world class version of Nebbiolo, and you certainly do, then this is where it comes from.
Here is a world class version of Nebbiolo, in this case from Barolo. You can spend a lot of money on some of these. This one is not inexpensive, but it’s not crazy either.
Wine: 2016 Attilio Ghisolfi Barolo Bricco Visette
Winery Location: Piedmont, Italy
Tasted By: Neil & Cheri Date: March 2021
Tasting Notes: the wine is a beautiful, vibrant red in color. This has the classic nose of “tar and roses” , along with some savory notes and some herbs. On the palate it is full bodied, and quite precise right now. The tannins are stiff, so decant this if drinking now. The fruit is very pure, and it finishes long. If you open this now you will be pleased, if you wait 10 years you will likely be amazed. This is definitely a candidate for the part of your cellar where you put down some wine for the future. Decant it for two hours and you can certainly enjoy it today. It checks in at 15.2% alcohol, but doesn’t hit you over the head with it. Pretty excellent Barolo.
Price Point – $89.99
Would We Buy It? – We would. This is a very deserving bottle for a special occasion. We certainly wouldn’t drink this every day, or every week, but it is something we would definitely put in the cellar to have in reserve for a family event, a gathering of friends, or even for a spontaneous moment with a pizza on a Wednesday night and your special person. Sometimes you just have to celebrate life a bit.
Great Barolo is one of our favorite things. This is pretty great.
A votre santé!
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